What Became of Yugoslavia: A Tourist's Guide to South East Europe

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From 1918 to 1992, 'Yugoslavia' was the colloquial name given to seven of the twelve countries that comprise the Balkan Peninsula in Southern Europe.  

Both the number of countries that make up the Balkans and the number that once constituted the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia are still heavily disputed – which may give an idea as to how this previously great nation became the many fractured states it is today. 

When I was in Belgrade two years ago, I met a local Serbian who told me that his grandmother had lived in 6 different countries in her lifetime, yet never once moved house. She was, 

  • Born in the Kingdom of Serbia

  • Grew up in the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes

  • Got married in the Kingdom of Yugoslavia

  • Gave birth in the Federal People's Republic of Yugoslavia

  • Met her grandchildren, including my Serbian friend, in the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia

  • And died in the Republic of Serbia.

It is difficult to imagine a single country changing its name that many times in a single century, but the many civil wars Yugoslavians have suffered through in that time play the functioning role for all of them. Most recently, another ex-Yugoslavian state changed its name in 2018, after a long dispute with Greece. The Republic of Macedonia is now called, officially (though not by her citizens), the Republic of North Macedonia. 

For the sake of this article and out of respect for any Kosovars reading, I shall refer to Kosovo as its own country. However, this too has been a matter of great controversy in recent years. 

The reason I bring all this up is not to give you a history lesson, but rather to give you some insight into why today, each of these places possesses a unique culture of its own. While many similarities connect all of the former nations of Yugoslavia: stunning landscapes, affordable tourism, and interesting people, it is their differences that make each one truly worth visiting. 

Without further ado, let's get into them. 

 

Bosnia and Herzegovina

Mostar

Bosnia and Herzegovina, more commonly referred to as just 'Bosnia', is a country yanked straight out of a delicate fairy-tale.

Green meadows and jewel-like lakes encircle dewdrop grey cities, home to spired castles and some of the most beautiful bridges in the world.

Both Sarajevo and Mostar, the country's most popular destinations for tourists, offer rare blends of authentic tradition and contemporary adaptation. One can expect to find chic restaurants, lively clubs, and tourist-friendly activities implemented in a non-compromising way against a backdrop of ancient structures and magical scenery.

Explore outward from the larger cities to discover villages and towns untouched for generations, even by the chaotic decades of Yugoslavian turmoil.

 

Croatia

Dubrovnik

Yugoslavia's most popular child sees nearly 20 million tourists every year, and with good reason. Of the seven countries on our list, Croatia is perhaps the only one that can be deemed a tourist hotspot.

Croatia is home to the vast majority of the beaches along the sparkling blue Adriatic shores, not to mention over 700 paradisiacal islands. The country plays host to some of the biggest music festivals and gigs on the planet and is jam-packed with wild nightclubs, lively island bars, and epic yacht parties.

Island hopping is the pastime that has earned Croatia a name for itself among the world’s tourism capitals, with the opportunity to relax along the beautiful beaches of Bol or party well through the night on the wild island of Hvar.

But travel just a few miles inland to find yourself deep into wine country, surrounded by sprawling vineyards and terracotta-thatched farmhouses that give the landscape a richly vintage feel.

 

Kosovo

Kosovo

For those wondering why I've given Kosovo its own spot on this list, the answer is simple: It deserves one.

Despite its modest size and all the criminally inaccurate press it gets, Kosovo proves to be one of Yugoslavia’s most pleasurable destinations.

Like most of the countries on our list, the people of Kosovo treat foreigners like family. They are very conscious of the poor publicity their country receives both from Western media and from its neighbours. Yet instead of growing spiteful because of this, Kosovars remain kind and grateful to tourists for seeing past the gross misrepresentations of the media.

One need only journey west a short distance towards the Montenegrin border to come across some of the lushest scenery in Yugoslavia, including mountain peaks that rear like the teeth of some vampiric god, and verdant forests that rise and fall with the shapeshifting valleys of the region.

The culturally rich capital Pristina offers a lively atmosphere, thanks to a strong student-base and a plethora of festivities that take place throughout the year. Pristina's architecture is some of the finest in Southern Europe, and the town is rich with history both fascinating and devastating.

Don't forget to visit some of the local cafes and try the food here too; both provide a delicious cultural experience that cement Kosovo as a country worth visiting.

 

(North) Macedonia

Matka Canyon

Oftentimes, the less-frequented places in the world turn out to be the ones hiding the most value, and this one is no exception.

The unsung hero on our list, Macedonia is a small country with a massive personality.

While the neat capital of Skopje is famous for its medieval monasteries, buzzing bazaars, and roughly five trillion statues (seriously, there is a ridiculous number of statues in this city), some of the most scenic canyons and waterways in the world await just beyond the capital’s borders. Travel by kayak, boat, or wetsuit along the emerald green river that bisects the Matka canyon to experience some truly breath-taking sights, including huge caves home to swarms of furry bats and Matka Lake – the oldest artificial lake in the world.

But for the real explorer, Macedonia's greatest treasure lies in the southwestern region: a modest yet beautiful city called Ohrid. Here you will find zig-zagging bricked roads that weave up and down hills between peach-roofed homes that have been around for centuries. There are over 300 churches somehow squeezed into this tiny town, many of which as old as the city itself. Mountains to either side also offer engaging hiking experiences.

Of course, the real reason people visit Ohrid is not for the architecture or even the hiking, but for Lake Ohrid – a crystal-clear body of water that shares a border with Albania and offers spectacular views from anywhere in the city. All along the water's edge are 'floating' restaurants and cafes featuring some of the finest seafood in Europe.

A real underdog in the competition for the best places to visit in Yugoslavia, Macedonia is not one to be missed.

 

Montenegro

Kotor

It seems that beautiful waters and surreal mountain landscapes are something of a theme amongst the countries on this list. Of them all, Montenegro could very well be considered the champion in this regard.

In Kotor and its surrounding regions, shimmering lakes stretch and wend their way between craggy hills of green and yellow grass. Dilapidated stone walls and skeletal castles can be found on every mountain, telling enigmatic stories of ancient wars won and lost.

Though the Western and Southern regions perhaps hold the aesthetic-edge over other parts of the country, the dazzling landscapes of Montenegro are not limited to its Adriatic border. Even in the relatively congested capital city of Podgorica and its surrounding areas, one can find rivers of sparkling glass and waterfalls that look like something from a painted masterpiece.

If you're a thrifty tourist looking for a top-tier holiday with a bottom-tier price tag, Montenegro is the place for you.

 

Serbia

Belgrade

Rolling hills ripe with grapevines and silver firs give way to steep valleys filled with blue and purple flowers. Staggering mountains rise above dense oak forests that hide the arctic lime waters of the Danube river. A country worth travelling across by car or bicycle, Serbia is truly one of Southern Europe's most overlooked holiday destinations.

And though the country is also home to many ancient structures of extraordinary design – some of which stand; many have dilapidated beneath the press of Time – it was my experience that Serbia's greatest asset was her people.

Every Serbian I met went above and beyond to welcome me to their homeland. I've been to many countries in which the locals were friendly and hospitable, but nowhere have I felt so authentically welcomed and wanted for my company. All the Serbian people with whom I shared a proper conversation offered to show me to some of their favourite spots, recommended things to do and places to eat, and asked me with genuine curiosity about my own country and culture.

While you're checking out the ancient ruins of Belgrade's once glorious castles, and its museum dedicated entirely to Serbian inventor Nikola Tesla, be sure to stop for a chat with one of the locals and experience this heart-warming hospitality first-hand. Don't forget to pop down to Novi Sad and gaze out over the chaotic thatch-roofed mess of the Old Town, and witness the gaping breadth of the Danube from atop a sprawling monastery.

 

Slovenia

Lake Bled

If you've visited the surrounding lands of Northern Italy, Southern Austria, and Western Hungary, you'll have some idea of what makes the scenery in Slovenia so special.

Caves, mountains, rivers, and a lake so gorgeous you'll struggle to gaze upon it with dry eyes: Yugoslavia's northernmost state is a sight to behold.

Egregiously underrated, Slovenia's national parks offer a mindful tourist as good an opportunity as any to be at one with the planet and nurture a connection with it. As morning light breaks over thin veils of fog, expect to see the mountains and forests emerge like something from a dream: shrouded in mystery and timeless beauty.

The pearl of this country is less than an hour's drive north from the capital Ljubljana, as all who have been to Slovenia will know. The stunning Lake Bled is a must-see not just for explorers of modern-day Yugoslavia, but for anybody visiting Europe with a day on the calendar to spare. 

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